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About PapaDisco

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    Anything aerospace, fishing, carpentry, old house restoration, farming, bbq-ing, classic cars

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  1. More lessons per week are better, as others have said here. Also, if you can immediately move on to the instrument rating that's a good thing too. The only thing I'd add that I've not read in the prior posts is this: take a lot of intro flights. Most schools offer a cheapie 20-30 minute ride with an instructor and I'd do as many of those as possible until you find the CFI that's the right fit for you. The fit between teacher and student is a very individual thing, and a CFI that you connect with, rather than struggle with, can make a big difference. As an example, my primary flight instructor was known for talking "too much." You might hate that, but it worked great for me; and partly the reason he was such a motor mouth was because he never touched the controls; he focused on talking you through every maneuver. That worked well for me but not might be your style. So, I think it's worth taking a few intro flights with different instructors until you find the right one.
  2. I wouldn't put a boveda in with the vacuum sealing. While I'm a fan of Boveda and use them in my tuppers, they do wear out and you can bust one open in between boxes. I concur with The Gipper: it's about the seal not the vacuum so much. You can simply wrap your boxes in saran wrap (less permeable than standard ziplocks) and be in very good shape for LT aging. I've had 5 year boxes come out of the wrap just glorious! Haven't made it to 10 years on anything yet, and I've not noticed a second sick period in my limited experience. Just make sure your sticks are at the humidity and temperature you want, then wrap and seal (or lightly vacuum wrap if you've got the equipment) and then store them in a tupper at your preferred rH and any minimal permeability will not be a problem.
  3. I'm with Iain and MoeFOH on this one. I really enjoyed it, and I'm someone who's put off by Tarantino's gratuitous violence trick. As comical as the ending bust up was, I think the film would have been more coherent without it . . . and probably twice as frustrating for viewers. Besides the enjoyable characters and winding storyline, it kept your attention by constantly getting close to the Manson/Tate storyline without ever finally connecting, and I liked that. Tarantino was teasing us with the possibility of a predictable resolution: how all the random storylines from the hitch hiking babe, to the Ranch, the neighbors, etc. all kept suggesting that we were going to end up once place, and then each thread, each resolution was denied by something else tense or comical; like the girl who chickens out and drives off with the car, or the outcome at the Ranch. The final fight seemed almost tossed in just to give the audience something expected. The old Tarantino would have brought all the threads together at Manson/Tate and made that a dark, violent and offensively comical resolution. This was definitely not that.
  4. I have loads of D5's from Rob; most with 3-5 years of rest on them. However my first D5, from a mini box of 5 was sharp and harsh as you described. It was a ROTT-into-the-suitcase-and-off-to-Saigon situation. So no rest for that first weary soldier. I don't know if it was travel shock, the jump in heat and humidity in Vietnam, or it just needed rest but it was a smoke that smacked me in the face and took a flame thrower to my palate; in any event I forgot about the rest of that box until about 6 months later when I tried one again and what a lovely revelation! Fantastic savory smoke and very approachable. If there's any consistent flaw left it's that they tend to underfilling 1 out of 10, but that wasn't bad enough to stop me loading up on more. Because of the size of my stash, they all tend to have a few years on them and so I've not had a bad one since and would highly recommend them if you can stand the larger gauge.
  5. The only skepticism I'd add to HSA's in country freezing process is that they're doing it in master cases, and it's a challenge to get the temperature right across all of that mass. That said, I've only found a beetle and larva once in an Partagas tubo. So the process works very well, just a tad short of perfect.
  6. Other way round. The bottom gets more oxygen. Heat does rise of course and much of the O2 is burned up by the time you get to the top. So if you're setting it down, put the slow burning side down and it will help it catch up somewhat. If you're taking a draw then this is irrelevant. I've noticed that a strong purge will also even out an uneven burn.
  7. Awwww . . . damn! I've been holding off on my Bushidos (2015 you recalled correctly) and now you had to go and tease me! I was aiming for 10 years before diving in, but 5 ain't bad ...
  8. I'd use 5 or 6 at most. If you're loading up those coolers with boxes from FOH they're already at a comfortable 65-67% rH (yeah, I've measured the arriving boxes many times out of curiosity for 'travel shock'). If you're installing dryer boxes or if you're opening and closing the lid in a desert environment every day then you'll need more.
  9. My last Bovedas (65%) are 5 years in and still going. If your seals are good, and your temperatures are stable, you'll get a very long life out of the Bovedas. Of course if you're sticking in lots of dry boxes that will shorten their life, but if your exterior environment is close to 50-70% rH you should get a very long time out of the passive Bovedas. If you're in someplace very dry, then perhaps active humidification will be a solution, but there's always a risk with those systems over humidifying, so if you can rely on passive systems like the Boveda that would be best even if it's a little bit more $$.
  10. I concur with the Captain. If they turned Atomic Blonde into a franchise I'd watch every film that came out. Expanding diversity in film should be more about letting the women create fitting roles, rather than try to cram them into an existing legacy.
  11. Big benefit to tubos is that rich flavor from limited air circulation. However that limited circulation also means that they are more at risk of condensation from big temperature swings. They go into the tubo all warm and moist in Cuba, and then get chilled somewhere (airplane cargo hold, storage in Canada, etc.) and you get tiny water droplets which sets off the mold bloom. So I like loosening the caps for a few days in my humi and then popping them back on for the long nap. Once their rH matches your storage, and IF you can keep their temperature stable you'll have no problems.
  12. Hey Brian, You're most likely OK if you can maintain those temps and it's shorter term storage anyway. The real disaster scenario is a beetle outbreak in longer term storage that you don't catch right away. I used to freeze everything as per the Japan Tobacco chart that BUCK POSTED (no need to yell ). I started freezing everything after finding a single hatched out beetle in a PSD4 tubo from Germany, so things to get through the freezing rooms in Cuba. However it's a pain in the ass and I've slowly fallen off the wagon. So now my LT storage is in water tight tupperdores (risk control just like Buck does), in a temp stable cellar (65F). I fill a new tupperdore and let the cigars settle to their Bovedas (65%) for a month and then saran wrap and close up the Tupper for a nice long nap. But freezing everything would be safer. As to the proper use of the chart, knowing your freezer temp is crucial. Some home freezers aren't all that cold, so measure yours first. If you do the ASININE REFRIGERATOR ADVICE then use the Acclimated larval chart (24 hours at -10 rather than 12 hours). I think most of us who have done the freezing thing have tended to do 2 or 3 days anyway.
  13. 5 year old stock, in good condition, should get a premium but not a huge one. Figure about 7%/year appreciation for good marcas. El Pres has been helpful in the past sourcing older stuff. It's a bit serendipitous of course but he will keep an eye out for you and screen out the junk.
  14. Ha ha . . . active humidification . . . . . . <duck and cover> sort of kidding, and certainly there are some problems that only active can solve, but passive systems with lots of 'mass' for lack of a better word have been working best for me. Staying away from anything that can mechanically fail, or input very short term spikes in liquid moisture is the biggest safety in my mind.

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