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About BTWheezy

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  • Location
    On the deck, enjoying a cigar.
  • Interests
    One-putts, smoked meats, and quality time with those that matter.

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  1. Having just watched the ESPN “30 for 30” episode on Alex Smith’s travails from the compound fracture, the near-death infections, losing most of his right calf, to getting back on the field...hard not to root for WFT. Plus Rivera, a solid dude. But... GO ‘HAWKS!
  2. A lot to unpack there...I’ll leave this to the professionals.
  3. My brother in law named one of their cats “Winston”, in honor of Winston Churchill. Their other cat was named Clementine (Churchill’s wife), which they called Clemmie for short. Not a perfect cigar tie-in (Sir Winston), but relates to an epic historical figure, and was famous for smoking cigars. You could do worse. Like Acid.
  4. A quick update for NewYear’s Day, mainly because college football bowl games and also moving slowly today. 🥴 Today was just getting the back cabinet panel cut to precise measurement (as close as possible), then glued-and-screwed. As discussed with @Fugu, the fastening process required some “encouragement” in the form of pipe clamps to get edges to line up, etc. When I look at the pics, I probably didn’t need this many screws, but better too many than too few. 1. Back of the cab. 2. Front view. 3. Front view, with refreshing beverage for scale.
  5. Yeah, it can be a bit squirrelly, can’t it! I’ve found that when it gets cut into smaller dimensions, it (generally) becomes workable. That said, I also pay attention to any deflections in larger pieces, and compensate with glue-and-screws. In a cab like this, with accurate dimensions and a robust amount of “physical readjustment” the cab and drawers should be square and good to go. Your point is well-taken though; Baltic birch ply is wonderfully stable, solid/dense, and has almost zero voids. But it’s almost never flat at the start. Typical US (or Canadian) plywood from the big box stores is generally flat, but is prone to voids, and not nearly as dense. I wonder why that is?
  6. I’ve lusted after Festool for years, but never pulled the trigger. How do you like those tools? I don’t own a vacuum press, so that’s not an option for the NicPac Cab. Given the thickness of the walnut stock, and the possibility of using sheet insulation, I think glue and small gauge nails will be the best approach. For the right project, veneer and vacuum presses are perfect...from what I’ve read. 😎
  7. Happy New Year everyone! 🍻 Update from New Year’s Eve day... I’m waiting on access to Spanish cedar and walnut, for interior and exterior work respectively. The guy I’m getting it from returns from vacation next week, so that’s cool. In the meantime, there was a task that is just flat-out boring, time-consuming, but necessary: drawer work. The NicPac Cab will have a total of 9 drawers, which requires a lot of prep. The singles drawers and the accessory drawer will be 5” deep. The internal drawers for storing boxes will be more like 2” deep sliding trays. Several hours, and a few Advil later, the first phase of drawer work is done. 👍🏼 1. Ripping more Baltic birch to width. 2. Drawer blanks done. 3. 1/8” round-over router bit to soften all edges to a consistent profile. 4. A Christmas Miracle. 5. (Mind-and-hand numbing amount of sanding down to 150-grit smoothness not pictured). 6. Drawer blanks ready for 2021! Best wishes to all for health, happiness, and a return to normal-ish life this year! - Wheezy
  8. Update for December 30... I learned quite a lot from the assembly of the Wheezycab. One key thing was to pre-drill the pilot holes for the screws so that I wasn’t scrambling during glue up and assembly of the main pieces. Made a big difference! Today was focused on getting the core structure pulled together, glued-and-screwed, and pretty stable for the next steps. @NicPac and I have a friend from the club we belong to who has a cabinet shop. This friend is my new source of Spanish cedar and walnut, which is awesome. Anyway, he was commenting that his shop runs at 1/128th” accuracy! Even though I’m very happy how the NicPac Cab is shaping up, it’s along the lines of 1/32”, maybe 1/64th” accuracy, and I’m spending a lot of time on this. Point being...SERIOUS PROPS to pro cabinet shops and the guys/gals that do this for a living. 1. Drilling pilot holes. 2. Assembly process for the main structure. 3. Today’s work is done, time for chillin’ with the family. 😎 - Wheezy
  9. Counselor...we’ve been over this several times. I saw this on Reddit, then confirmed on YouTube. Therefore, truthful and accurate. Christ on a nice pair of roller skates...if you can’t accept those as reliable sources, I’ll see what I can find on Facebook and Instagram.
  10. Looking at you @rcarlson, @Rhinoww, @Ken Gargett, and the rest of you trained in the lawyerly arts... - Wheeze
  11. Minor update, OCD Department... Well, not really OCD, but rather necessary due to nature of the project. In the previous post, I’d updated with my crosscut sled, which (usually) allows for consistent, balls-on 90-degree cuts. After the main cuts for the case from the Dec 28th update, I was measuring the pieces for next cuts, and found them to be off by 1/32” or more. Not sure what happened to my sled since the last big project, but the base fence had deflected (deformed?) away from true 90 degrees. So yesterday’s time was spent to true-up the fence, using playing cards and a new piece of wood. A pain in the a$$, but necessary for the project. A drafty, gap-filled humidor isn’t part of the program!
  12. The exterior will likely be walnut, with a dark stain. Will be collaborating with @NicPac when the project gets there. Exterior wood will be somewhere around 1/4” to 1/2” thick, and will (probably) be glued and tacked into place. You’re correct, Baltic ply is stable AF, so the case will be good to go. 🤘🏼
  13. Very cool Frank! I’m curious...on a few of the labels, the “crest” (don’t know what else to call it) is blank. Is that likely intentional, or are those labels still in the design/printing process? Thanks for sharing! - Los El Wheeze * Spanish guidance provided by @ElJavi76
  14. A quick update for Dec 28th... Getting case elements cut to size. This is going to be a big cabinet for a one-man, hobbyist operation. Nick says “make it as big as you’re comfortable” so the case itself will be 40”H x 24”D x 54”W, which equates to approximately 101cm x 61cm x 137cm. Further metric conversions are left to the viewer. Making the case from 7-ply 1/2” Baltic birch plywood. The reason for the 1/2” case is that there’s going to be an additional layer of real wood on the outside, in hopes of achieving as close as we can get to a rustic look (still seeking a source for reclaimed planks though). Also, I’m thinking of using some 1/2” insulation foam board to help with a thicker edge profile, and also help with temp consistency. So 1/2” ply it is for the case. 1. Ripping to width. 2. Cutting to length using a crosscut sled. Mentioned this before in previous threads, but a sled is the best for safety and accuracy. 3. Sides, tops and bottoms are done.

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