rum reviews


Ken Gargett

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this is part of something i did for a mag about 15 months ago. planning on an update as have quite a few new ones to add but meanwhile thought members may be interested. let me know if you disagree and please add your own.

These rums represent a mix of those available locally that were submitted for the tasting (marked #) and quite a few brought back from Cuba and its surrounds (marked *). It may be possible to find some of these in speciality stores on rare occasions. It must be understood that some of these rums are intended only for blending and not as discrete spirits for drinking neat or on the rocks. If you are thinking neat, consider a little water to bring out some of the hidden flavours and lessen the impact of the spirit.

Bundaberg Rum # (Australia) – The White Bear is so universally popular in Australia that it seems irrelevant as to how it might taste. In truth, definitely one for blending, which is exactly what it is designed for. The upmarket ‘Distillers No 3’ is a different story. It is softer, with some nutty nuances and hints of toast and ginger. Better balanced and much more classy.

Inner Circle # (Australia) – Wonderful to see this famous label back and the quality of the rums will give Bundy a run for its money. The Red (40%) has quite a powerful spirity, smoky nose with hints of mandarin. You get the feeling that this is close to special and the palate even more so. The Green (57.2%) seems riper with a more raisiny, glaced orange note. It is a marginal step up. Powerful but with the flavour to match. My favourite of the three. The Black (75.9%) is serious stuff with a mix of flavours including nuts, spice and raisins, but too powerful to be used solely as a sipper.

Matusalem # (Dominican Republic) – A revelation as this is a quality producer, though from a marketing perspective, they do rely on the long-severed Cuban link more than necessary. They provided the only white, Platino, in the tasting and it is certainly worth trying. There are some floral, spice and citrus notes with a little sweetness on the finish. A quality blender. The Clasico, a ten-year solera, is delicious with honey and rockmelon, chocolate and spice. It is quite elegant and the sort of rum that will change opinions. Step up again to the Gran Reserva, a 15-year solera. This was the second top rum in the tasting with mature, nutty, smoky, raisin and dark chocolate flavours. Quite complex, it is perfectly balanced with some power on the finish and just enough sweetness.

Bacardi * (Bahamas/Puerto Rico) – The Oro is pleasant, a light spicy number with hints of nutmeg, ginger and earth but a little short and hard on the finish. For mixing only. The 8 Anos (8 Years), on the other hand, is definitely a rum that can be sipped slowly. There are smoky, honey, nutty, chocolate and orange peel characters with a spicy twist on the finish. Marginally sweeter than some but evidence that big, and Bacardi is very big, doesn’t mean that quality has to be sacrificed.

Angostura # (Trinidad & Tobago) – Attractively packaged with a wax seal, this was a curious rum. There is undoubted quality but there was almost a spicy, earthy rawness to it, backed by a little smoky note. Confusing as there is obvious aged material used here. Worth trying but different.

Appleton * (Jamaica) – Appleton Special has been a personal favourite for some time (keep an eye out in overseas duty free stores). Much lighter and more elegant than most, it retains fine balance, almost dancing across the palate. There are orange, caramel, milk chocolate and mandarin notes. Love it. The Reserve is also very good though a little more ponderous. It has a quite distinct ‘rum and raisin’ note with dark chocolate, spices and a sweetish finish.

Ron Caney * (Cuba) – One of the numerous Cuban brands that are rarely seen off the Island, Oro Ligero is supposedly mid-range in their quality stakes but a Cuban mate recommended it (Cubans are fiercely supportive of their favourite rums). What a find! There is orange, caramel, spice, a hint of coconut with a touch of nicely balanced sweetness on the finish. The Anejo Centuria, is another star, with obviously older material. Nuts, honey, cinnamon, a little glaced orange and hints of old Rutherglen muscat. Just a little shorter on the finish than the best.

Ron Santiago * (Cuba) – Again a referral by a Cuban friend, the brand was almost impossible to find a few years ago but seems to have made a revival. The Anejo has an old bronze colour with hints of old leather, dark chocolate and spice. Quite powerful but balanced and with a very long finish. The Extra Anejo is quite simply the best rum I have ever tasted. Only 12,000 bottles were made with estimates of the age of the material around 20 to 25 years. A tiny sip is like experiencing an explosion of alcoholic cream in your mouth. Wonderfully complex, elegant and with a finish that seems to go forever, the flavours range through cinnamon, spiced apple and classic Cuban cigars. Worth the trip around the planet.

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» Ron Caney * (Cuba) – One of the numerous Cuban brands that are rarely seen

» off the Island, Oro Ligero is supposedly mid-range in their quality stakes

» but a Cuban mate recommended it (Cubans are fiercely supportive of their

» favourite rums). What a find! There is orange, caramel, spice, a hint of

» coconut with a touch of nicely balanced sweetness on the finish. The Anejo

» Centuria, is another star, with obviously older material. Nuts, honey,

» cinnamon, a little glaced orange and hints of old Rutherglen muscat. Just

» a little shorter on the finish than the best.

»

I consider this to be the best production rum available. If you have an opportunity to but it do not pass it up.

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Guest boss hogg

Having travelled to Puerto Rico A LOT, I can tell you that they export their nasty swill (Bacardi) and keep the good stuff- Don Q- for themselves.

I don't know if Don Q is available in Australia, but it's becoming more widely available in the Lower 48 (US).

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  • 2 years later...

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