Storage temp for habanos

[Claudius]

» Great info Fug ....moved it to the classics

Now I know why I dont post here as often as I used to: no one reads my damn posts! That study has been linked here by Kjell and myself previously (in 2007) and no one bothered reading it.

[El Presidente]

» » Great info Fug ....moved it to the classics

»

» Now I know why I dont post here as often as I used to: no one reads my

» damn posts! That study has been linked here by Kjell and myself

» previously (in 2007) and no one bothered reading it.

Now Claudius it is easy to miss something in the hussle and bustle of normal life, particularly links.

Don't sweat the small stuff.

[Trevor2118]

» I’ve been looking for information on this subject for about 3 years and

» this is probably the best I’ve happened upon:

» http://www.jstage.jst.go.jp/article/aez/41/1/87/_pdf

»

» It’s a study to find out what temperatures/times are required eliminate the need for fumigating tobacco for beetle control.

The most interesting fact is General Storage:

quote:" As the most susceptible stage, egg susceptibility to moderately low temperatures (16–20°C) was specifically examined.

At 20°C, most eggs (>80%) normally hatched within 4 wk

but

all eggs died within 6 wk at temperatures less than 18°C.

This fact indicates that the reproductive cycle can be blocked at temperatures less than 18°C, and that tobacco stored in such conditions will never become infested, even if eggs are deposited by invading adults. " end quote.

Note:

16C = 61F

18C = 64F

20C = 68F

This has been said time and time again:

Temperature should be controlled to within the recommended range of 16ºC to 18ºC (61ºF to 64ºF).

Because of natural / normal flucturations, the target should be 16ºC (61ºF).

[tattoodad13]

» » I’ve been looking for information on this subject for about 3 years and

» » this is probably the best I’ve happened upon:

» » http://www.jstage.jst.go.jp/article/aez/41/1/87/_pdf

» »

» » It’s a study to find out what temperatures/times are required eliminate

» the need for fumigating tobacco for beetle control.

»

» The most interesting fact is General Storage:

»

» quote:" As the most susceptible stage, egg susceptibility to

» moderately low temperatures (16–20°C) was specifically examined.

»

» At 20°C, most eggs (80%) normally hatched within 4 wk

»

» but

»

» all eggs died within 6 wk at temperatures less than 18°C.

»

» This fact indicates that the reproductive cycle can be blocked at

» temperatures less than 18°C, and that tobacco stored in such conditions

» will never become infested, even if eggs are deposited by invading adults.

» " end quote.

»

» Note:

» 16C = 61F

» 18C = 64F

» 20C = 68F

»

» This has been said time and time again:

»

» Temperature should be controlled to within the recommended range of

» 16ºC to 18ºC (61ºF to 64ºF).

»

» Because of natural / normal flucturations, the target should be 16ºC

» (61ºF).

I've yet to freeze any of my smokes and after reading this you've got me wanting to freeze them all right now.

[fugwumpy]

» » Great info Fug ....moved it to the classics

»

» Now I know why I dont post here as often as I used to: no one reads my

» damn posts! That study has been linked here by Kjell and myself

» previously (in 2007) and no one bothered reading it.

Oops! My apologies Claudius and Kjell, I had no idea.

[Claudius]

» Oops! My apologies Claudius and Kjell, I had no idea.

Dont worry about it; it's not like the search function works...

[El Presidente]

» » Oops! My apologies Claudius and Kjell, I had no idea.

»

» Dont worry about it; it's not like the search function works...

Using the search function I found the post you referred to under the topic

Static vs. Non-Static Humidification Systems

http://www.friendsofhabanos.com/board_entr...id=68091#p68252

;-)

[smokum]

I keep my humi at 60 F...

[Fatshotbud]

Another helpful deterrent to beetles is buy from reputable sources.

[Tampa1257]

Bumped for newer members review.

[Bartolomeo]

Funny timing, I was just debating this tonight on whether to get a non-cooled unit or stick with my cooled Vino's?

I want to get a larger humidor such as a Aristocrat for example but you need to double the cost for a cooled humi vs. non-cooled

I have 2 Vino's currently and was told early on that cooled environments prevent the beetle problem but considering Cuba freezes all of their cigars before leaving the island and me buying from reputable sources, I think I might take the chance of a larger, non-cooled humidor

The average temperature would be 68-72* year round in my house with out a cooling system in my humi

Right now I keep my every day cigars at 63-65* and 64%RH and my aging cigars at 66-67%RH all in my Vino's

I am still debating this internally

Bart

[XiNupe]

Funny timing, I was just debating this tonight on whether to get a non-cooled unit or stick with my cooled Vino's?

I want to get a larger humidor such as a Aristocrat for example but you need to double the cost for a cooled humi vs. non-cooled

I have 2 Vino's currently and was told early on that cooled environments prevent the beetle problem but considering Cuba freezes all of their cigars before leaving the island and me buying from reputable sources, I think I might take the chance of a larger, non-cooled humidor

The average temperature would be 68-72* year round in my house with out a cooling system in my humi

Right now I keep my every day cigars at 63-65* and 64%RH and my aging cigars at 66-67%RH all in my Vino's

I am still debating this internally

Bart

I am having the same internal debate. I keep thinking that the money I save on the non-cooled system would allow me to buy more cigars. I'm interested in know what the more seasoned members think.

[dochowl]

I've been using a non-working Vinotemp for the last 3 or 4 years. Given that my lounge rarely gets above 73* or below 60*, I haven't concerned myself with temp. I've got about 100 boxes, along with a bunch of 65% beads and have had no troubles at all.

[thechenman]

As far as temp/climate control for your cigars, I think it all comes down to what part of the country you live in. Certain climates require it, and others don't.

[CanuckSARTech]

Just read this thread. Good info to be had. I've always known about the tobacco beetle issue, and the freezing conundrum. But I've never seen that study before, with the specific numbers.

I have (now) a larger custom-made cabinent humidor - I'll have to start off a thread soon with pics and descriptors. It holds about 150 individual sticks in a drawer, and then about 20 boxes or so. I only recently (last Christmas) made the move to this, from a 150-count desktop humidor and some large coolers.

My cabinet sits at 66-68% RH (in different spots, slight variances), and with my temp averaging out anywhere from 64 F, up to a max 72 F. It's a non-cooled cabinet, just run with a Cigar Oasis XL machine. The cabinet sits in the middle of our finished basement family room, along a lateral wall. I'm in southern Ontario, Canada, so our temps vary wildly throughout the year. Our house temp is pretty much always at 72 to 75 F throughout the year. With the seasonal variances, the cabinet's wintertime internal temp range is about 64 to 69 F, and then 67 to 71 F in the summer (hitting 72 is rare).

I've thought about doing the freezing thing before, but I've just never had an issue before. I've considered doing this when I first get new boxes in - I would look at putting them in doubled-up good freezer bags, and then 1 day in the fridge, 2 days in the deep/chest freezer, and then 2 days in the fridge again. My thoughts, anyways.

Normally, with me always using a cooler before, my fresher/newer boxes were always placed in there to settle for at least 6 months before any singles were moved to my desktop. The cooler was a giant, blue, 96 quart tank of a thing, and in the spot where I had it, it was very consistently at 65 F / 65 %, with the use of a single, simple, clear crystal humidifier element (a 250-count, rectangle-sized one). I found that this "settling" period always seemed to acclimatize my sticks well, and gave me a bit of minimum aging time before I even started to look at them. Also, with keeping them in this cooler for 6 months, I was easily able to see if there were any issues, as I constantly (every 2 weeks) would crack each box open, to let them "breathe" for a few minutes, and to allow me a quick beetle check.

I know I've been lucky to not have a beetle issue before/yet. But I do keep a good eye on my sticks, and fully inspect all boxes about once a month or so. I may look into doing this in the future, for sure, with any new stuff, as you just never know. Especially with me now moving to the majority of my storage in the cabinet, and out of the cooler.

[ammarhaider01]

Fascinating stuff, so how does one maintain a temperature of 65 F in a coolidor? is placing a cold container of distilled water an option?

[Colt45]

Fascinating stuff, so how does one maintain a temperature of 65 F in a coolidor? is placing a cold container of distilled water an option?

Insulated coolers do an excellent job of maintaining a stable climate, especially when kept in an area where the temp changes gradually, such as a

basement. I keep mine in my basement and do nothing for temp, and very rarely (usually in the dryness of winter) have to add water for humidity.

[ammarhaider01]

Insulated coolers do an excellent job of maintaining a stable climate, especially when kept in an area where the temp changes gradually, such as a

basement. I keep mine in my basement and do nothing for temp, and very rarely (usually in the dryness of winter) have to add water for humidity.

Thanks for the tip Colt, I'm in the process of using a cooler as my new coolidor, it'll be in a basement, but right now it's on the roof eating up some sunshine to remove any scents it might've got settled there, since it's been locked away for a few years, so the big question is how to get it to reach the desired range of temperature of around 65F? should I leave cold bottles or ice cubes in it overnight to get it getting cooler, before I have any boxes or anything in it?

[CanuckSARTech]

Fascinating stuff, so how does one maintain a temperature of 65 F in a coolidor? is placing a cold container of distilled water an option?

Insulated coolers do an excellent job of maintaining a stable climate, especially when kept in an area where the temp changes gradually, such as a

basement. I keep mine in my basement and do nothing for temp, and very rarely (usually in the dryness of winter) have to add water for humidity.

Agreed. I simply put mine in the basement, directly on the cement in my utility room. The air temp in there always hovers around 67-68 F, and the floor temp is fairly steady at about 55-58 F. Combined, and with the cooler insulation, it ends up staying very constant at around 65 F. Its a great solution for me, for long-term storage, for aging stuff that isnt ready to do into a desktop or cabinet humidor yet. Inexpensive yet efficient, and very reliable no matter the other variables (water, power outage, temp variances, etc.).

[Colt45]

Thanks for the tip Colt, I'm in the process of using a cooler as my new coolidor, it'll be in a basement, but right now it's on the roof eating up some sunshine to remove any scents it might've got settled there, since it's been locked away for a few years, so the big question is how to get it to reach the desired range of temperature of around 65F? should I leave cold bottles or ice cubes in it overnight to get it getting cooler, before I have any boxes or anything in it?

I've seen your cooler thread - members pretty much have you covered. I wouldn't worry too much about your cooler temp. Bring it to the basement

and see what the temp is after a day or two. I suppose you could use some cold bottles or such if needed, but I imagine you probably won't need to.

Also, I would not add any water to your beads / desiccant unless you need to, and then a small amount as needed. Don't be surprised if you find that

the cooler ends up doing a much better job than a typical wooden desktop humidor

[CanuckSARTech]

Thanks for the tip Colt, I'm in the process of using a cooler as my new coolidor, it'll be in a basement, but right now it's on the roof eating up some sunshine to remove any scents it might've got settled there, since it's been locked away for a few years, so the big question is how to get it to reach the desired range of temperature of around 65F? should I leave cold bottles or ice cubes in it overnight to get it getting cooler, before I have any boxes or anything in it?

May I suggest something? I'm not sure if this has been discussed somewhere else on the forum, but I had a similar issue with my big cooler, with regards to needing to sterilize/clean it out. Now, this is just my own solution to the problem - others may agree or not. But, for my cooler, I used a 50/50, water-diluted solution of Fantastic w/ Bleach spray. It's a bathroom cleaning spray that's super good at sterilizing. My cooler was actually formerly my Dad's, and he used it for everything, including for storing fish while out fishing. Nevertheless, this cooler got lots of smells adhered to it. So, when I decided to start using this cooler for cigar storage a few years ago, I used this spray. I sprayed it all over within the cooler, and scrubed it very thoroughly, let it sit for a minute or two (literally, not long), and then scrubed it down again, rinsed it thoroughly, and then scrubed it heavily while rinsing it to make sure to leave no residue. I used a non-abrasive soft scrub sponge (the green and yellow ones, like for doing the dishes), so as not to scratch into the surface of the cooler interior, which would leave more surface contact for odour to absorb. Then, I rinsed one last time, and left it to dry in the sun, and left it open and sun exposed for a few days.

Now, again, this was just what I did, and it was for a cooler that had some residual smells to begin with. But, it worked with amazing results, and I had/have no issues with storing cigars in this, 4 years later. I notice you're listed as being in Jordan, so who knows if you have this product there, but I'm sure an equal mixture with bleach and dish soap would also work similarly.

I definitely wouldn't use Lysol spray, or other similar products, as they can end up leaving a chemical residue that can corrupt your cigars.

Regarding your other question, just leave the cooler sitting in the area you're going to place it for a 12 to 24 hour period. Then, put your digital hygrometer / temp gauge in there, and it will give you an accurate picture of the temperature range that it should stay at.

[ammarhaider01]

I've seen your cooler thread - members pretty much have you covered. I wouldn't worry too much about your cooler temp. Bring it to the basement

and see what the temp is after a day or two. I suppose you could use some cold bottles or such if needed, but I imagine you probably won't need to.

Also, I would not add any water to your beads / desiccant unless you need to, and then a small amount as needed. Don't be surprised if you find that

the cooler ends up doing a much better job than a typical wooden desktop humidor

Brilliant, thanks mate Man I don't know what I would've done if I didn't come across this place, probably a dry/beetle-infested/soggy/ fake cigar newbie who thinks he's da man!

[ammarhaider01]

May I suggest something? I'm not sure if this has been discussed somewhere else on the forum, but I had a similar issue with my big cooler, with regards to needing to sterilize/clean it out. Now, this is just my own solution to the problem - others may agree or not. But, for my cooler, I used a 50/50, water-diluted solution of Fantastic w/ Bleach spray. It's a bathroom cleaning spray that's super good at sterilizing. My cooler was actually formerly my Dad's, and he used it for everything, including for storing fish while out fishing. Nevertheless, this cooler got lots of smells adhered to it. So, when I decided to start using this cooler for cigar storage a few years ago, I used this spray. I sprayed it all over within the cooler, and scrubed it very thoroughly, let it sit for a minute or two (literally, not long), and then scrubed it down again, rinsed it thoroughly, and then scrubed it heavily while rinsing it to make sure to leave no residue. I used a non-abrasive soft scrub sponge (the green and yellow ones, like for doing the dishes), so as not to scratch into the surface of the cooler interior, which would leave more surface contact for odour to absorb. Then, I rinsed one last time, and left it to dry in the sun, and left it open and sun exposed for a few days.

Now, again, this was just what I did, and it was for a cooler that had some residual smells to begin with. But, it worked with amazing results, and I had/have no issues with storing cigars in this, 4 years later. I notice you're listed as being in Jordan, so who knows if you have this product there, but I'm sure an equal mixture with bleach and dish soap would also work similarly.

I definitely wouldn't use Lysol spray, or other similar products, as they can end up leaving a chemical residue that can corrupt your cigars.

Regarding your other question, just leave the cooler sitting in the area you're going to place it for a 12 to 24 hour period. Then, put your digital hygrometer / temp gauge in there, and it will give you an accurate picture of the temperature range that it should stay at.

Thanks for the info Canuck! and welcome to FOH! well I've had some great advice all day yesterday on another thread I posted, the cooler hasn't been used for years, never used for anything more than storing cold beverages and the odd picnic food, so there's no fishy smells, it's just the plastic scent from having it closed shut for years, I've actually rinsed it with bleach last night and left it in the sun all day today so that should do the trick! I'll get it in the basement with a hygrometer tonight and see how it goes!

I'll keep your advice in mind , thanks for the great tips, and welcome to FOH again

[CanuckSARTech]

Sounds good, and thanks.

[bob25]

Well,after doing some reading on the subject you got me worried.

I just now set-up my wine cooler but before that I had boxes laying in a coolidor for 7 or 8 months.

In the coolidor the RH was good (65%-70%) but the TEMP was very high all the time,82F or 83F!!!

I check my boxes regularly and didn't notices any small holes in them.

I hope they are OK ,is there away to be sure they are not infested other than freezing them?